Winter Sun - Vietnam - in search of authenticity

Globalism, has given us identikit cities worldwide. A seeping monoculture squeezing out heritage and diversity, leaving streets dominated by similar constructions and the same international brands. 

It’s harder to find travel locations that feel real and authentic, and living in central London, we needn't journey across borders to wonder at more branches of Starbucks or Chanel. My preference is to lose myself in the expanses of empty nature, but I’m also fascinated by the culture of those less affected corners of the world. That’s not looking for a medieval re-enactment, I can save that for am-dram, just something more connected to the history of a region and its people. 

Under the cloak of communism Vietnam has remained culturally diverse. They have documented their 54 identified ethnicities and have a large museum in the capital with active displays in the galleries, and full-size village buildings in the gardens. The most populous group, the Kinh majority, number in the tens of millions, others just single digit thousands, clinging to historic cultures far away within the mountainous topography, with their own languages and traditions. The Museum of Ethnology is well worth a visit if you’re passing through Hanoi.

It takes a special crafting to bring authenticity and cultural heritage to a modern resort along with the luxury accoutrements that make travel a pleasure. 

Bãi San Hô is a 96 hectare carve-out of a forested mountainside, overlooking a serene coral bay of the Vietnam Sea. Opened in 2020 as part of the Zannier Hotel Group, it combines stunning vistas of nature with eco-luxury and unique traditions. The 73 villa cabins span from beach hideaways, through the lowland forest and up to idyllic mountain lairs to suit the most reclusive guests.

And all built in traditional style according to three different ethic architectures, and each of them melting into the lush natural background.

The Hill Villas are reminiscent of Eden tribes, Beach Villas evoke the Cham tribes and those in the fields overlooking the rice paddies, are built on stilts. These remind me of the long-house village I stayed at thirty years ago, deep in the jungle of Borneo, and a full day of travel to the nearest telephone. 

I like walking and would never normally afford myself the use of resort buggies, but here the forested strolls are long and steep in places with some higher chalets a mile from the reception hub, so I did succumb on occasion if the evening Negroni effects were still lingering.

Rooms

Being at Bai San Ho gives an insight into Vietnam’s rich culture and history through a journey of the senses with each architectural feature infused with vernacular tradition. Dotted with Vietnamese artefacts, paintings and local silk prints, interiors are an earthy wonderland of textural finishes resonating with heritage. Raw, muted, natural materials and antiques steeped in tradition, envelop guests in a soulful nirvana.

The craftsmanship and curation of interior design is exceptional within the constructed authenticity of the buildings that meld themselves into the surrounding nature. Achieving this effect where it doesn’t look or feel contrived takes a rare level of creative brilliance. 

It’s often the thoughtful soft touches that separate the best from the rest and Bai San Ho has them aplenty. A level of housekeeping warmth that would suggest a proprietary matriarch overseeing every detail.

Dining

The sumptuous Western and Asian breakfast spreads were laid out lavishly in both range and abundance. You’d be forgiven for thinking there were hundreds of rooms not 73, and yet still the multiple dining spaces allowed for a quiet and personalised, unhurried mealtime.

Seafood is in abundance. Fishermen congregate at night quite near the shore and use lights to attract tuna and seabass. These catches are then delivered straight to the local fish market by dawn. 

Three dining options reveal the essence of Vietnamese cuisine: Làng Chài’s thatched huts on the quiet beach host a lively grill restaurant served daily by the local fisherman. 

Bà Hai offers authentic immersion into Grandma Hai-style regional cooking.

While Nhà Ở is the heartbeat to the resort with panoramic hilltop views, an all-day Southeast Asian and international menus, and a comprehensive bar. Some wines are from Mr. Zannier Snr’s European vineyards. 

Afternoon tea on one of the many tranquil verandas encourages a calmer pace.

The Hoa Sen spa (literally meaning “Lotus Flower”) has seven treatment rooms (including 3 doubles), hammams, saunas, a tea-room and large relaxation areas, ideal to unwind.

Guests can detox and recharge, forget about time, and let the hours glide effortlessly by, relaxing with the signature ‘Sea Elixir’ treatment. Blissful.

Last year I visited Zannier’s Cambodian retreat, Phum Baitang in Siem Reap. A favourite of Angelina Jolie, it’s the perfect launch point for discovering Angkor Wat. You can read about it here

Michael Van Clarke